Journey Through the West: A Nostalgic Road Trip from Denver
Ten years ago, I embarked on an exhilarating adventure that led me through some of the most breathtaking landscapes of the American Southwest. Initially, I had planned a European escapade for a week or ten days, but the allure of camping and exploring the southwest for a similar budget was too enticing to resist.
Starting in Denver, Colorado, this journey took four weeks through several national parks, ancient ruins, and a scenic drive across five states. I even stopped in Las Vegas for a few days when I was thinking of relocating there.
En route, I basked in the serenity of the surroundings, camped under the celestial canopy, and fully immersed myself in the region’s natural splendor. Traveling post-Labor Day had its perks- the parks were blissfully deserted, and I discovered idyllic camping spots far from the madding crowd, offering a truly tranquil back-to-nature experience.
Here’s a nostalgic look at my epic road trip through Mesa Verde, Chaco Canyon, the Grand Canyon, and beyond.
From the Rockies to Ancient Ruins of Mesa Verde: Denver to Mesa Verde
The trip began with a drive southwest from Denver through the mountainous roads of western Colorado. As I left the busy city behind, the mountains of the Rockies surrounded my car, their peaks reaching for the sky.
The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and Earth. Occasionally, the mountains would give way to vast stretches of flat land, the open skies above seeming to stretch on forever.
My first stop for the night was Mesa Verde National Park, a treasure trove of ancient history. The park is home to over 600 cliff dwellings built by the Ancestral Puebloans over 700 years ago. I set up camp in a wooded site away from most other campers and was ready to explore these fascinating remnants of the past.
While driving throughout the park, I encountered two bears crossing the roads, one so close that I could see its muscles move with power and agility. This experience made me appreciate the beauty and strength of these wild animals.
For a few days, I wandered through the park, marveling at the cliff dwellings, imagining what life might have been like in these carved-out rock homes twenty or thirty feet below the mountaintops. It was a humbling experience, making me reflect on the resilience and ingenuity of the people who once called this place home.
Most dwellings are well protected because of their accessibility. And are only visible by looking across the canyons. But you can climb down to a couple of dwellings and experience the ancient houses still preserved on the sides of the straight cliffs.
The informative guides told stories of the lives of the inhabitants, who were parents by thirteen, grandparents in their twenties, and deceased by mid-thirties.
Onward to Bandelier National Monument and Sante Fe.
After four beautiful nights in Mesa Verde, I headed south to Sante Fe, which quickly became my favorite little city in the United States.
Nestled in the middle of the desert, Sante Fe retains its Wild West charm, especially in the town square. Horse posts lined the streets, waiting for cowboys to wrap the rains of their favorite ride while they went inside to eat or buy goods.
I remember walking around the wooden sidewalks, visiting the little shops, and enjoying my first meal of New Mexican food, a mix of Mexican food with green chiles that creates a savory spice that my taste buds loved.
Sante Fe is also steeped in history. Here, scientists came when they were hired for the Manhattan Project. A small hotel has a historical plaque indicating where these travelers registered for rooms before being taken to Los Alamos.
Los Alamos and Bandelier National Monument
Just a short drive from Sante Fe is the town of Los Alamos, home to some of America’s most outstanding scientists. Nestled right outside this restricted area is Bandelier National Monument.
As you drive into the canyon below, the carved-out homes come into view as you twist and turn down the park entrance.
Once inside, I set up camp and began to walk through the ancient dwellings carved right into the sides of the mountains. To me, this seemed like a quiet and peaceful place because it’s so well hidden from outside travelers.
Besides the ancient homes, artwork still survives on the walls of some portions of the area. A few are preserved behind plastic sheets where, hopefully, they can be enjoyed for generations.
The campground had just a few other campers besides me. One was the wife of a Physicist who worked at Los Alamos. She was there to do some writing on a novel she was working on.
And there was an outdoors man who knew how to live off the land and actually trained an actress about foraging native plants for a TV series. I would see him scouring the foliage to gather plants for his meals. They made for exciting company for my few days here.
Chaco Canyon: Desert Silence and History
From Bandelier, I continued north to Chaco Canyon, another sacred site of the Ancestral Puebloans. The rough road into the park gives you your first clue about how remote you are. Unpaved and ungraded, it is covered with potholes and ruts that will ruin most cars.
The ten-mile entrance took an hour to drive through. At first, I was worried about my car not making it, but after twenty minutes, I wasn’t sure if I was going to make it. At the time, they said the lousy road kept many tourists away.
I camped in the spacious campgrounds of Chaco Canyon and explored the ruins of ancient houses that once held hundreds of guests. Surveyors have found roads stretching out from Chaco Canyon for hundreds of miles in all directions. It’s believed to be a meeting place where ancient Indians came to share, trade, and celebrate.
The campgrounds were virtually empty except for about twenty campers with telescopes who were there to stargaze because Chaco Canyon is considered one of the best spots in the world for seeing stars.
Travel guides estimate that there’s no artificial light for fifty miles. And the star show was terrific. Camping here was a humbling experience. Except for an occasional gust of wind and the howling of distant coyotes, the desert was a quiet place to relax.
Majesty of the Grand Canyon: A Natural Wonder
After soaking in Chaco’s history and mystique, I drove westward to one of the most iconic landmarks in the United States: the Grand Canyon.
Setting up camp on the South Rim, I spent my days hiking the rugged trails and enjoying the jaw-dropping views of never-ending canyon walls and valleys.
I spent four beautiful days camping without dealing with crowds. I hiked a few trails, the longest halfway down to the bottom. The people I was walking with egged me on to continue.
But even though I was in good shape, having finished an Ironman less than a month earlier, I saw the exhaustion of the people walking up as we descended, and I decided just to enjoy the moment.
A Taste of the City: Five Days in Las Vegas
Leaving the tranquility of the Grand Canyon, I drove west into the neon glow of Las Vegas. I stayed for five days, exploring the Strip and taking in the city that never sleeps.
My stay in Vegas was more than just about the casinos and nightlife; it was a chance to see if this city could be my new home. Apart from the glitzy shows and all-you-can-eat buffets, I visited the parts of the city only locals get to see.
But after five days, I knew that the desert city wasn’t my cup of tea, and it was time to move on to quieter places where nature was the main attraction.
Journey Through the Heat: Death Valley and Beyond
After Las Vegas, I ventured into the unforgiving land of Death Valley, one of the hottest places on Earth. It was 107 degrees when I arrived at Furnace Canyon.
As I drove through the sun-soaked valley, the heat was intense, but the place’s harsh beauty was unforgettable. Partway through, I just wanted to get out safely without a car malfunction, so there was no hiking, with just an occasional stop for water or ice cream.
From there, I headed north to Sequoia National Park, where I camped among the giant sequoias for four days. I also visited the General Sherman Tree, which may be the oldest living thing on Earth. The towering trees were a stark contrast to the arid landscapes of Death Valley.
Here, I found peace and relaxation. This was probably the most beautiful camping of the whole trip. I had a small pad of land that jutted out over a small creek flowing below. While sleeping in my tent, the sound of the flowing water helped me rest peacefully through the night.
The Granite Giants of Yosemite
Next up was Yosemite National Park, with its dramatic cliffs and wide-open valleys. I set up camp high in the mountains with only two other campers from Europe.
As I toured the park, I often saw iconic granite peaks like El Capitan and Half Dome. My days were spent hiking and touring, and I took my first rock climbing class. On the way to the class, I saw another bear wandering off the road and watched it graze as I headed down into the valley.
I did just two short climbs and decided that was enough at fifty-three years of age. But I stayed to help spot the other climbers so they could do more climbing. They actually told me they were impressed by my willingness to try and my ability—a nice compliment since they were half my age.
Because of the time of year, the waterfalls were dry, but the scenery was awesome. The last night, I returned to my campsite to a half-inch of snow. When I entered my tent, I could feel the floor floating on water, so I spent the night in my car. Just part of the adventure.
Homeward Bound: Colorado National Monument and the Road Back
With Yosemite in the rear-view mirror, I began the journey back to Colorado, but not without a final drive through Colorado National Monument near Grand Junction. The monument’s red rock formations and deep canyons provide a final taste of the terrain I drove through much of my trip.
I decided it was time to head back to Denver and made a push to make it back before the day ended. As I drove the last stretch back to Denver, I found myself experiencing an early snowfall in the peaks around Aspen and Breckenridge.
Being from Chicago, I was not used to mountain driving in the snow. I moved slowly behind semi-trucks just to be safe, but I made it safely and was exhausted from the white-knuckle drive.
Back to Denver: Memories to Last a Lifetime
In the following days, I had a chance to reflect on all the places I had been—the ancient ruins, the canyons, the forests, and the city of Las Vegas.
This trip allowed me to connect with the past, immerse myself in nature, and discover new wonders of the American West.
Although I ruled Las Vegas out as a new home because it isn’t the same outside the central Strip, Sante Fe was excellent but too small to find a well-paying job, and a two-night stay in Albuquerque proved not to be as attractive as I thought, But it’s all part of the journey of life.
Now, ten years later, some of the memories of that journey are as vivid as ever. It’s a reminder that doing something new and adventurous is the best way to discover what brings joy into your life.
Would I do it again? definitely. Until then, I’ll carry the fond memories of those weeks in my heart.
Till next time, I hope you enjoy your journeys.
Joseph O’Brien