Introduction to Sapa, Vietnam
Sapa, Vietnam, offers a glimpse into a way of life that feels like it’s from another era. In remote villages, you’ll experience the simplicity and charm of living like the locals, surrounded by stunning landscapes and timeless traditions.
Starting the Day in Sapa’s City Center
My day began in Sapa’s city center, where I met my guide, Zer. She greeted me warmly before we headed to the outskirts of town. From there, we climbed a steep street that quickly led us into the mountains. In just 15 or 20 minutes, we left behind the noise of the town, entering a quiet trail winding through the hills.
Exploring the Mountain Trails of Sapa
The trail itself was peaceful. We passed villagers with baskets on their backs full of wood, food, or crafts as they made their way down to the markets in Sapa. As we walked, another guide passed us with her tourist in tow. I may be 64, but I was determined to keep up, relying on my endurance and perseverance to reach Zer’s village.
Visiting the Villages in Sapa
Along the way, we passed small villages in the mountains. The homes ranged from modern buildings to weathered structures with metal roofs. Some were drying corn and raising chickens, living a rustic lifestyle that felt worlds away from contemporary life.
A Highlight of the Journey: The Tiny Church
One of the highlights was passing a tiny church. Zer explained that while most villages practiced Buddhism, this one had a Christian community. With its wooden steeple and bell, the church stood as a unique sight in the countryside. Zer said you could hear the bell echoing through the mountains when it rang.
Taking a Break at a Local Restaurant
The hike was strenuous at times, with steep inclines and high altitudes, but we pushed on. Eventually, we arrived at a small restaurant at a three-way intersection of stone roads. It was a surprisingly modern spot for such remote surroundings. The upstairs seating area could accommodate around 100 people, offering local dishes prepared in the open kitchen below. At the time, I was the only guest on the second floor, enjoying the quiet atmosphere.
Zer’s Village: A Blend of Modern and Rustic Life
When we reached Zer’s house, I was surprised by how modern it appeared outside. Chickens wandered the yard, clothes hung on the porch, and the lush, green landscape surrounded the home. Inside, the house was large but straightforward. The second floor was unfinished, and the main living area featured a small dining table surrounded by plastic chairs. Cloth partitions separated the bedrooms, and my room contained only a bed draped with mosquito netting for a peaceful night’s sleep.
A propane burner sat on a wooden bench in the kitchen, and a large fireplace took center stage for cooking meals. A 55-gallon drum filled with water served as the dishwashing station, with the open-air kitchen blending modern conveniences with rustic charm. The bathroom, accessed through a side door, was surrounded by wild bamboo, adding to the house’s unique setting.
Savoring a Homemade Family-Style Dinner
As I settled in, Zer busied herself with daily chores—washing clothes, preparing dinner, and picking up her kids from school. Meanwhile, chickens gathered on the porch, waiting for their rice. Zer and her sister spent the afternoon working on their New Year’s outfits, hand-sewing intricate designs onto indigo fabric. I learned that in their village, women who didn’t make new clothes for the New Year were considered lazy—a notion that struck me as ironic, given the constant work from sunrise to sunset.
While I relaxed on the porch, watching the buffalo being led home for the night, Zer prepared dinner. She expertly separated morning glory plants, rolled spring rolls, and cooked rice over an open fire. The kitchen’s nostalgic atmosphere reminded me of how life might have been a century ago.
We sat down for dinner—a family-style meal of rice, spring rolls, and tofu. Zer’s husband, Sang, and their children joined us. At one point, Sang’s father stopped by to scold him for drinking too much “happy water” the night before. It was a reminder that some family dynamics are universal, no matter where you are.
Morning Life in Hau Thao Village
Morning came early in Hau Thao village. Long before sunrise, the roosters announced the start of a new day. Zer was already busy with her chores—taking down laundry, feeding the chickens, and preparing breakfast for the kids. I spent a peaceful morning on the porch, soaking in the tranquility of village life.
Descending Back to Sapa
After Zer dropped her kids off at school, we began our journey back down the mountain. The steep descent was harrowing on my legs, but the stunning views of terraced rice fields made it all worthwhile. These terraces, which look like giant steps hugging the mountainside, are designed to catch and hold water for growing rice.
As we navigated the narrow paths between the fields, the dirt barriers were slippery from the water, and getting a foothold was tricky in places. Occasionally, we passed buffalo grazing in the fields, and the muddy trails made for an adventurous hike.
A Memorable End to the Journey
Finally, we reached the valley floor, where a cab awaited me back to my hotel. My overnight stay and hike were some of the most memorable experiences of my eleven months of travel. If you’re looking for an authentic day trip that has yet to be overrun by tourists, I highly recommend it.
To experience this adventure yourself, contact Zer on WhatsApp at +84 397 784 365—and tell her I said hi. Enjoy your journeys!